Introduction: Wooden Chainsaw Pulverisation

At the oddment of the summer, a hurricane ploughed through my area and knocked down a ton of trees.

I unloved to see all of that Wood tour to waste and wanted a room to crop some of it for future use.

Using solely materials I had on hand, I assembled a chain saw mill inspired by Izzy Rove's videos.

You can follow this exactly or constitute modifications.

SAFETY:

Chainsaws are reinforced to remove a lot of material quickly. Always keep safety in mind and keep body parts away from sharp squirming parts. Optic protection, hearing protection, and lung protection are all recommended.

Materials:
3/4" plywood (2'x6')

1"x12" (two 6' lengths)

2"x4" (~18' total)

screws

Tools:

Chainsaw

Screwdriver or Drill/Driver

Saw (a hand saw is sufficient simply a miter byword and/or buzz saw will make the cuts much easier)

Step 1: Rails and Stick out

First step is to build the rails that our chainsaw sled leave slide along and the support for the log up.

Cuts

1) Cut the 1x12 to equal lengths. You want a distance that will is around 12 inches longer than your longest so that your chainsaw blade has headroom on both ends of the log. [I reduced mine to 72"]

2) Cut four (4) pieces of 2x4 at 11.5 inches seven-day. These will support the breadth of the 1x12 and help to mount the rails to the end braces.

3) Cut two (2) pieces of 2x4 at 3 inches shorter than your 1x12. These will support the length of the 1x12. [I stinger mine to 69"]

Assemble

1) Nookie the 2x4 to the bottom of the 1x12 by nookie through the teetotum of the 1x12 and into the 2x4

Footmark 2: Sled and Chainsaw Attachment

Incoming step is to construct the sledge that testament hold the chainsaw and run along the 1x12 train.

The exact design will need to be customized to your chainsaw, simply I will outline the basic principles.

Regardless of the chainsaw shape, you need to have a sled that will slide along the rail off.

  1. Cut a piece of plywood to 14.5" x 8"
  2. Cut ii lengths of 2x4 to 8"
  3. Victimisation screws, attach the 2x4s to the bum of the plyboard, at opposite ends. The 1x12 should fit snuggly 'tween the 2x4s

Now, information technology's time to to get fanciful. The goal is to attach the chainsaw to the plywood thus that the chainsaw bar will go perpendicular to the 1x12 rail. We want the plane of the bar to be utterly parallel to the plane of the 1x12. We want the chainsaw to persist attached to the sledge and not rotate forward/backward operating theater tip up/bolt down. I did this by attaching 2x4 blocks to hold the handle in situatio and adding a 2x4 sustain that sits underneath the bar and holds the vane in set with a screw. Once attached, my chain saw will just move with the sled. Keep in listen, you deficiency to personify capable to safely hold the trigger and engage the condom release.

Step 3: Final Assembly

Turn out two pieces of plywood to 24"x30".

Attach the rails to the plywood end supports using screws. The rail and the log defend should be parallel and level. However, you can adjust the heights to specify the thickness of the curve.

Step 4: Attach Anchors and Machinate the Lumber

To prevent the backlog from rolling patc victimization the chainsaw grind, I added 2x4 supports to the log support and screwed the log to those 2x4s. This holds the log-in place, adding an element of safe and reducing cutting off errors and waste.

Step 5: Running the Chain saw Mill

Insure you have enough clearance on the front and end of the log up for the chainsaw and the sleigh. Also ensure that the chainsaw is long enough to cut the whole width of the log.

Have some shims adroit to prop up the logarithm as you progress through the cut. This prevents the backlog from binding along the chainsaw and reduces the risk of kickback.

Make sure everything is clear, from the path of the chainsaw and begin your cut. Proceed tardily, oil the saw as needed, and let the proverb do the make for.

Stack the boards and let them scorched to get make for your next project!

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